BI105 Mine Cut Diamond Ring, Seven Diamonds Set in 18 karat Yellow Gold:


BI105

The circa date for this ring is 1855 to 1860, and is from Boston, Massachusetts likely a wedding ring.
The handmade setting is top quality and very protective of the seven Diamonds that it holds. The shoulders are beaded and engraved. The setting is set with seven hand cut excellent quality Diamonds.
The old mine cut diamond is the earliest form of the modern brilliant cut. Also called the "cushion cut," it has a cushioned shaped girdle. This cut of the diamond is characterized by a high crown, small table, deep pavilion, and large culet. The size of the diamonds is .06 points of a carat making its total weight .42 of a carat.
The seven diamonds are graded for Clarity: VS1, VS2-Very Slightly Imperfect--These stones have small inclusions which are slightly difficult to see under a loupe with a ten times power magnification. Color is F, which is colorless! On all grading points of cut, clarity, and color this diamond rates very nice quality by today diamond standards and excellent for 19th Century standards.
History of Diamond Cutting:
Until the late fifteenth century, diamond cutting had been a primitive business. Diamonds were first "cleaved" by placing a chisel at the stone's weakest point of molecular cohesion and striking it with a mallet. If the precise point were located on the diamond's structure, the adhesion would be so weak that the diamond could be separated with a fingernail. If pressure were applied to the wrong point, or in the wrong direction, the diamond would shatter. After the medieval cutter succeeded in cleaving the diamond into the basic shape of the desired jewel, he placed it in an egg-shaped tin cup, called a dop, and attempted to remove any imperfections in it by striking it with another diamond, since only diamonds were hard enough to cut diamonds. This process, which was extremely slow and painstaking, was called bruting.
Even though the medieval cutter could eventually give the stone a jewel-like appearance through these methods, he was extremely limited by the natural shape of the diamond.
The situation suddenly changed at the end of the fifteenth century when a Jewish diamond cutter in Antwerp named Lodewyk van Berken invented the scaif. The scaif was simply a polishing wheel that was impregnated with a mixture of olive oil and diamond dust, but it completely revolutionized the art of diamond cutting. The rough diamond was clamped in a dop and held against this rotating disc, while the diamond dust on it ground away from the diamond to the desired angle. With the scaif, it became possible to polish symmetrically all the facets of the diamond at angles that reflected the maximum amount of light. As disciples of Van Berken applied the laws of optics to these angles, they created sparkling gems that fascinated the princes and aristocrats of Europe. Charles the Bold, Duke of Normandy, became the patron of Van Berken and commissioned him to cut a 137-carat diamond, which became known as the Florentine.
Diamond cutters from all over Europe came to Antwerp to study Van Berken's methods, and orders for these light reflecting gems flowed in from all the royal courts, making Antwerp the pre-eminent diamond-cutting center in the world.
The ring and goldwork are in excellent, and the ring is strong to wear. This bands size is 4 1/4 not but can be resized smaller or larger if need.

Price: $1,500.00