E500 Cannetille 15 karat gold Earring with Pearl, Coral and Natural Citrine Briolette:


These rare gold earrings were made in the Victorian time period, circa dated to 1840 to 1850. They were made by a type of gold work called Cannetille. The ear wires are original to the earrings and checked for weak areas and found to be strong. The Flower design ear wire holds a natural Coral bead and below that faceted drop of natural Citrine Briolette. A briolette is an elongated pear-shaped gemstone cut with facets, and it is often drilled to hang as a bead. It was popular during the Victorian times.

The rise and fall of Cannetille Jewelry:
Cannetille work was inspired by embroidery, reputedly the embroidery found in traditional peasant garments. Some sources mention 18th century Portugal or India as a source, some mentions France. The simple filigree tendrils that started to appear in the fashion and jewelry world around 1820 transformed into cannetille during the following decade. One can find cannetille work from almost every European nation during the 1820's and 1830's.
On one hand, the rise of cannetille is explained by the "gold poverty" of the early nineteenth century. After the Napoleonic wars, precious metals were extremely scarce on the European continent. The economy was crippled in the early 1800's and even the upper classes struggled to survive the depression. Nonetheless, grand jewelry was in fashion. Cannetille jewels were very indeed large, but used only a small amount of gold. Though they were typically quite labor intensive (goldsmiths fabricated the intricate wire work completely by hand), the jewels were kept affordable by low labor costs.
On the other hand, cannetille jewelry tapped into a particular aesthetic urge-- part nostalgic, part romantic-- running through Europe at the time. In France, as the Bourbon monarchs returned to the throne in 1814, jewelry from pre-revolutionary days, in particular the Louis XVI style worn by Marie Antoinette, became fashionable again. In Germany, scions of the literature and arts like Goethe and Novalis celebrated nature and the infinite, nodding to a distant, more authentic past. With its strong connection to the traditional garb worn by women in rural areas, cannetille fit nicely with this new aesthetic mood. It is likely that city dwellers were exposed to such garments during their jaunts to country feast days.
As suddenly as cannetille work emerged in jewelry fashion, it disappeared. The height of cannetille jewelry in civil fashion is around 1830 and when no other clues are present to properly date these pieces - as hallmarks, invoices or other provenance - they are dated as ca. 1830.
Early Examples of Cannetille:
In Moscow's Hermitage, there is a silver toilet service from the collection of Catherine the Great, which was made around 1740-1750 in China (possibly from Canton). Although it mainly features filigree work, the piece shows early signs of cannetille decorations. In particular, it features a delicate spider-web "over stitching" around a small stamped circular dome, a design which would became popular later in the 19th century.
The earrings are in excellent condition and strong to wear, the size is 1 1/2 inch tall and 1/2 of an inch and 3/8th wide.

Price: $900.00